Pasta alla Gricia

In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium-low heat until shimmering. Add the guanciale and cook, stirring occasionally, until fat has rendered and guanciale is golden brown and crisp, about 15 minutes. Reduce heat to low and add 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper to bloom in the guanciale fat for about a minute more ("blooming" is when the pepper foams and is aromatic). Remove the guanciale to a small dish to wait until the end of the preparation. Set skillet aside, off the heat, for a few minutes while you deal with the next step.

When the pasta water is boiling, add salt and rigatoni, stirring frequently at first to prevent pasta from sticking to the bottom of the pot.

When the pasta is about 2/3 cooked, transfer 2 cups of the starchy pasta water to skillet. Return skillet to high heat and bring to a boil, swirling to emulsify pasta water with guanciale fat. Leave the pasta in the remaining water to finish cooking.

When pasta is almost finished, reserve another cup of the starch water and drain the pasta, then transfer the pasta to skillet (the pasta will be a little undercooked; it will finish in the skillet); reserve drained pasta water.

Finish cooking the pasta in the skillet, swirling the skillet constantly and gently stirring with a spoon or rubber spatula, to ensure even cooking and that the sauce remains emulsified, until pasta is al dente and sauce is thickened and reduced, 6 to 8 minutes; if sauce reduces too much before pasta has finished cooking, add a little reserved pasta water to skillet as needed. Add guanciale to skillet and carefully toss to combine.

Remove from heat, add half of the grated Pecorino Romano, and toss or stir rapidly to combine. Once cheese is fully emulsified in the sauce, add remaining Pecorino Romano, and toss or stir rapidly once more to combine. Adjust sauce consistency as needed with more pasta water. Season with salt and pepper, if needed. Serve hot.