Did you know...
New material is added to this site all the time. Some of it (Best of Show and Feast Reports) are always posted to the frint page. But all the many pages of "backstory" about ingredients and markets and what-have-you never get promoted to the front page. You see them through their links, but you can also see what's new by clicking on the Recent Posts link in the menu beneath your username in the left sidebar.
It's snowing this morning, so instead of being a hundred miles from home by breakfast time, we were snowbound. Fortunately we had laid in provisions for a nice, simple brunch that took about 15 minutes of time in the kitchen:
- Bound for Glory Vermont Cheddar from The Cheese Shop
- A Poached Salmon, served warm with
- Jumbo Shrimp poached with the salmon, and
- A simple Dill-Boursin Cheese Sauce that I invented when I discovered I had no more heavy cream.
- For tea, Lorna had her favorite Anastasia Tea and I had a smoky Lapsang Souchong.
This simple brunch took almost no effort to prepare. I keep my clarified court-bouillon in the fridge, so the poaching the salmon and shrimp was a simple matter of putting it in a just-big-enough pot, covering with the cold court-bouillon, and bringing to just short of the boil. Instead of letting it cool all the way, I let it sit there while I made the sauce, a five-minute affair.
To make the sauce, I melted a tablespoon of butter and added as much flour to make a roux, added some milk to make a thin white sauce, added about a tablespoon of dried dill, then about a half of a small shallot-and-chive Boursin cheese. The cheese melted into the white sauce, thickening it nicely.
I love salmon, especially the milder Atlantic Salmon. We have salmon for dinner at least once a week, so I am always interested in finding new preparations.
I found this one in Favourite Irish Recipes. The Irish and salmon go way back. The "King of Fishes" figures prominently in Irish folklore, and in the cuisine of that island nation as well. This is a simple and delicious way to prepare it: in a buttered pan in a moderate oven for about 15-20 minutes for 3/4 of a pound, with a little sliced onion and parsley, and some cider and cream. I had Jersey Cow Cream from Vermont and some old-fashioned hard cider from a jug in the cellar. The fish was delicious, especially washed down with a little more of that cider.
The Poles have a saying that a fish should swim "once in water, once in butter, and once in wine", the last of which is in your belly. I humbly propose that an Irish-style salmon can do very well indeed if his last swim is in hard cider from the cellar!
For the last of our four Exploring Italy feasts, we discovered Naples and Campania. All three wines were traditional to Campania, based on the ancient and under-appreciated Aglianico grape.
Antipasti, with a Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio:
- Polpo alla Luciana (marinated octopus)
- Marinated Olives
- Fritto di Mozzarella
- Wine Biscuits and Fennel Taralli
- Two pizzas: a Pizza alla Napolitana (tomatoes, mozzarella, anchovies) and a Pizza alla Gamberi (garlic, shrimp, and bay scallops)
The Pasta, with a spicy, delicious Aglianico di Taburna 2008:
- Fusilli Aglio e Olio - a simple olive oil and garlic sauce for the pasta, with no tomatoes
The Main Course, with a fabulous Feudi di San Gregorio Taurasi 2004.
- Peperoni Ripieni (bell peppers stuffed with rice, mozzarella, and hard-cooked egg)
- The Porchetta! My all-time favorite dinner... courtesy of my brother Bill. Follow the link to see his excellent little treatise on Porchetta.
Dessert was not Italian - this being my birthday, Annette made her special mincemeat pie with her homemade green tomato mincemeat - my favorite!
WINE NOTES: It was something of an adventure getting the wines for this feast.
Also featured at my birthday party was this irresistible honorable mention: The Flaming Pig, filled with burning brandy on which is broiling a chourico (and then a linguica, another chourico, and then a couple of Italian sausages...). All the menfolk had to assist in this particular culinary endeavor.
I had discovered this elegant bit of grillware at the Continental Market in New Bedford. I got a couple of them, one of which now lives at a cottage on Plymouth Long Beach, and this charming specimen became a Yankee Swap gift at a family Christmas Eve event, to reappear at what may be the only outdoor grilling event ever held on my January birthday.
The Continental Market is on Sawyer Street in New Bedford, just off Acushnet Ave. While you are there, go to the meat counter in the back, where you can get whole and half Country Hams - I haven't seen those for sale anywhere else in New England.
Honestly, who could resist this plump pyrotechnic porcelain porker with his winsome smile and his gift of hot grilled sausage?

The Feast of Seven Fishes is a southern Italian tradition that is catching on again among the descendants of the Italian-American immigrant community. The basic idea is simple: while awaiting the birth of Jesus, we abstain from meat and dairy foods. Naturally for Italians this is an invitation to get creative with fish, so traditionally we prepare a feast featuring seven different seafood dishes and as many vegetarian dishes as you like.
It is also important to note that southern Italy has historically been very poor. It certainly was during the great waves of immigration from there in the early Twentieth Century. Many of the dishes passed down through family tradition reflect this: smelts, sardines, octopus, eel, baccala, and anchovies in pasta all are common foods in the feasts that strive for authenticity.
There's really no point in trying to get too authentic about the seven fishes, since many of the seafoods and other ingredients are not available in New England. A certain amount of substitution is unavoidable, which brings up the idea of following the tradition in spirit more than in substance: if my great-grandfather in Campania were to celebrate Christmas Eve in foodie style, how would he do it? If he immigrated to Plymouth, how then?
Every year my employer allows us an afternoon for a Yankee Swap and some goodies. The affair has grown with the company over the years, from an original potluck by yours truly serving 25 employees to a small team of dedicated elves serving the 94 employees in the Lexington office of an international corporation.
A small amount is catered in from the outfit that provides food for our lunchtime meetings; this is because we have no way of preparing hot food in quantity. But you might be surprised at what we set out with just a few creative people who want to show a good time to their colleagues.
Annette has fond memories of Venice, so we turned to that fair city for the third in our Exploring Italy series of celebratory birthday feasts. Most of the dishes came from Anna Del Conte's The Classic Food of Northern Italy.
We had:
- A Cato Corner Hooligan cheese (one of Annette's favorites) and some Reggiano Parmesan with a bottle of Allegrini Palazzo delle Torre 2009
- Risi e Bisi: a hearty traditional soup of rice and baby peas with crushed fennel seed
- A bottle of Secco-Bertani Valpolicella 2008
- Baccala Mantecato on Broiled Polenta: another Venetian classic that was far more delicate than we expected from the salt cod.
- A bottle of an excellent, chocolatey San Giuseppe Amarone della Valpolicella 2003.
- Stewed Savoy Cabbage: cored and quartered Savoy cabbage cooked on a soffrito of panceta, onion, and parsley and then braised in white wine - the surprise hit of the evening!
- Stuffed Sole (spinach, golden raisins, pignoli) in a Venetian Saffron Sauce (a reduction of the fish poaching liquid with saffron and a bit of sugar).
- For dessert we had something non-Italian: a cranberry mincemeat pie made by a friend and brought down by Annette.
Our old friend Owen lives in Germany now, so we don't see him very often. He was visiting the US this week on family business with his daughter Sarah and a lady friend, Brigitte. Our opportunity to see them was a Sunday brunch. Because Brigitte doesn't get fresh seafood very often and seldom sees New England fare, I set up a little highlights of New England brunch:
- We started with scones and Rhode Island johnnycakes, with New Hampshire maple syrup, wild Maine blueberry preserves, and local cranberry preserves, plus some traditional lemon curd and Double devon clotted cream from Mrs Bridge's Pantry in Woodstock, Connecticut.
- On another plate we had some Grafton Village Special Reserve Cheddar, from Vermont.
- Then we had scrambled eggs with chives and sage from the garden (still good thanks to this bizarrely warm December!) and my celebrated lobster salad with fresh-from-the-harbor lobsters from Wood's Seafoods, Plymouth, Massachusetts.
- We finished up with a Christmas Pudding and Hard Sauce to make the brunch extra-festive.
- So we represented all six New England states in one brunch!
Lorna's birthday is in October, which is surely one of the finest months for cooks! There are still plentiful fresh vegetables, the winter squashes are in, the apples are ripe and ready, and you can cook without overheating the house!
This feast was one of my four-part Exploring Italy series, set in Tuscany. Most of the dishes came from Ada Boni's Italian Regional Cooking, with additional guidance from Anna Del Conte's The Classic Food of Northern Italy.
We had:
- A starter of four New England cheeses, with a bottle of Rosso di Montalcino 2009
- We opened the meal with the Livornese Cacciucco, a flavorful and generous fish soup.
- Next came La Ribollita, the classic Tuscan white bean soup. I made this extra-hearty so as not to have two soups in the meal. This was extraordinarily savory.
- The main course was a Pollo in Agrodolce, a fascinating and zippy dish that features white raisins, wine vinegar, pignoli, and bitter chocolate - this was the hit of the dinner!
- With the meal we enjoyed a Boscoselvo Brunello do Montalcino 1999 and a Ruffino Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale d'Oro 2000.
- We finished with another surprise hit of the night, the mysterious Castagnaccio, a cake of chestnut flour, olive oil, pine nuts and golden raisins.
Richmond's birthday is in June, when the farmers' markets are starting to fill up with fresh veggies and strawberries are at their peak.
This feast was one of my four-part Exploring Italy series, set in northwestern Italy: Piedmont, Liguria, and Valle d'Aosta. Most of the dishes came from Anna Del Conte's The Classic Food of Northern Italy with a couple from the Silver Spoon Cookbook.
We had:
- We opened the meal with an antipasto of Fontina Valle d'Aosta cheese and artichoke hearts, white anchovies, and olives, refreshed by a bottle of good Lambrusco, and some Martini and Rossi Dry Vermouth on the rocks.
- This was followed by the Ligurian Cappon Magro, an awesome structure of seafood on a mound of steamed vegetables, held together by a fabulous piquant green sauce.
- Next came a Roast Beet and Cheese Ravioli with Pesto alla Genovese and a Green Bean Tourte.
- Then came White Truffle Risotto, a classic Piedmont flavor, accompanying a rich Chicken with Mushrooms and Cream featuring multiple types of mushrooms.
- With the meal we enjoyed a Batasiolo Barolo 2001 and an Alessandria Barbera d'Alba 2009.
- We finished with the non-Italian but seasonal Frozen Strawberry Torte.
The feast was held on Sunday, 19 June 2011.
Attendees were John and Lorna, Richmond and Annette
Destination: The annual Common Ground Fair in Unity, ME.
Best of Show: The pasture-raised pork from Tide Mill Organic Farm
The Common Ground Fair is just about the antithesis of the Big E (see last week). It is smaller and quirky, in its own way. But the biggest difference is that it is hosted by MOFGA, the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association, and so is a venue exclusively for organic and sustainable agriculture.
MOFGA has a number of fearless farmers growing produce that you probably never heard of and that you'll probably never see on the shelf at Stop & Shop, like the German Beer Radishes pictured here. That's one of the best things about coming to these events.
This year was the 30th annual Common Ground Fair. It has grown quite a lot since Lorna and I first visited it in 2001. Then is was certainly smaller, and the organic farmers and other vendors there were more likely to be the pioneers of the movement, the true believers making it happen in a difficult business environment.
The 2010 fair was much, much larger: 60,000 people were expected! There was a three-mile wait to park on Saturday afternoon, and then a 10-minute walk along a muddy woodland path after we'd parked. It was much further than when we'd parked for the Big E the previous week.
Destination: The annual Eastern States Exposition in West Springfield.
Best of Show: The Wild Maine Blueberry Pie at the State of Maine building
The Big E is the biggest "agricultural fair" in all of New England. I put "agricultural fair" in quotes because the ag part of the show is much diminished behind the neon glare. Behind the mad bazaar of offbeat products, the enormous midway, the huge evening crowds for the country music performances, the BMX stunts and the juggler there were livestock and farmers, a cheese competition, and close-ups on regional specialties by state.
Destination: The annual September Brimfield Antiques Fair.
Best of Show: The Leverett Village Coop
Saturday's adventure started with one of our three annual expeditions to the awesome Brimfield Antiques Show.
You really can't imagine the sense of remote rural deep-hemlock-hillside-dark isolation until you drive through Leverett, turn left on Rattlesnake Gutter Road, and visit the Leverett Village Coop... I got Kombucha and local Irish Stout from Lefty's Brewing, Bernardston, MA.