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By John, 26 July, 2020

Salsa Bianca

Pappardelli alla BiancaHere's a subtle and delicious creamy white pasta sauce that is easy to prepare in just the time that it takes to cook the pasta. 

You want to use good pasta, because the flavors are not strong and a good pasta shines through. We used Garofalo pappardelli in this photo, but I think it would work fine with most types of pasta.

This is a good primo dish before chicken or fish main dishes.

By John, 26 July, 2020

Bell Pepper Sauce

Bucatini with Bell Pepper SauceHere's a light sweet blast of summery fresh flavor for long pasta, like the fat round bucatini shown here.

As with many Italian recipes, there are not many ingredients, and quality is paramount. In this case, the usual olive oil, garlic, and onion are accompanied by garden fresh red and yellow bell peppers, a little cream, and a pinch of fresh marjoram (or oregano if you can't get marjoram). 

Use farm-fresh peppers if you can; they have more flavor than the supermarket variety because they can be sold within a day or two of harvesting instead of spending a week in a refrigerated truck! 

By John, 26 July, 2020

Stuffed Sole in Saffron Sauce

Stuffed Sole with Saffron SauceI found this elegant recipe in the excellent Classic Food of Northern Italy by Anna del Conte. It's not hard to make, it cooks quickly, and it's fine enough to serve to guests as a course at a fancy dinner.

You have to use good saffron to get the full effect of this dish. The sauce is exquisite as it pairs with the delicate sole. 

By John, 20 July, 2020

Green Beans with Tomatoes and Olives

Green Beans with Tomatoes and OlivesHere's a simple, sturdy vegetable dish with what Americans might think of as a peculiar mix of flavors, but they go well together. I especially love how olives are transformed when they are cooked into a dish!

The original recipe calls for fresh beans and tomatoes. I tried it with frozen beans and canned tomatoes and it came out fine, and it was much less work!

The original recipe also called for quartering the olives, but I left them whole and didn't even pit them; as I said I really like cooked olives in a dish and I prefer the flavor blast of getting them whole (and it makes it easier for Lorna to pick them out!) 

This reheats well, so the next time I make it, I will double or triple it and have the leftovers with lunches, where I really should get more vegetables. 

By John, 19 July, 2020

Mushroom Risotto

Mushroom RisottoThis is a full-flavored fall dish, bursting with mushroomy goodness.

It's not as rich and decadent as Barolo and Porcini Risotto, so you don't have to save it for a special occasion. It's great with big beef dishes and hearty dry red wine from the Piedmont!

The best flavor here comes from a mix of mushrooms, both fresh and dried, with their soaking liquor. There's a real boom in mushroom cultivation now, so it's much easier to find good fresh mushrooms of interesting varieties than it was even a few years ago. 

By John, 19 July, 2020

Halibut with Herbs and Cherry Tomatoes

Halibut Braised with Herbs and Cherry TomatoesThis was an invention of necessity another time that Lorna bought (expensive) halibut hoping for the Halibut in an Orange Sauce, only to learn that we had no good oranges in the house. 

So I followed the same technique, but I used herbs and cherry tomatoes and used herby dry vermouth instead of the sweet simple syrup. The orange-gold color in the sauce comes from the tomatoes; I saw that a few had burst, so I helped the others along. It was pretty and tasty too!

By John, 17 July, 2020

Seafood Risotto

Seafood RisottoHere's a festive-looking all-seafood Italian cousin of the famous Spanish Paella. The mix of shellfish gives it a great visual presentation, and you get a lot of flavor because you can enjoy the flavors of the individual shellfish, and the taste as they mingle in the risotto. 
By John, 17 July, 2020

Haddock Baked with Potatoes

Pesce al Forno con Patate

This is an Italian recipe, Nasello al Forno con Patate, that calls for hake, but I can't always find hake in Plymouth. It's a flaky white fish that cooks a lot like cod and haddock, so they allow us to make these Italian recipes with the local white fish.

This dish has delicate flavors that would go well with a Vermentino or a Gavi di Gavi white wine. It's a great recipe to know because if you have a piece of haddock or cod (or hake), you probably have the few remaining ingredients already in your kitchen.

By John, 16 July, 2020

Cod Baked with Lemon and Tomatoes

Cod baked with lemon and tomatoesI adapted this from a recipe for Orata, which we don't get in New England waters, but for which Cod substitutes pretty well. 

It's light and summery, and it's really quick and simple to prepare, too. It's especially nice with a light pasta on the side, with no sauce except what's in the fish dish. 

By John, 16 July, 2020

Mushroom Trifolati

Mushrooms TrifolatiI saw this on menus all over Italy. I got the recipe from The Silver Spoon Cookbook, but I know that it was also a little different across that long country. 

The main thing is that the Silver Spoon recipe calls for fresh Porcini mushrooms, which are not easy to come by in New England, but I had them with different mushrooms in different places. 

I made this one with Baby Bellas, mostly to see if the technique would have any tricks. It is pretty easy, it just cooks a long time; now I want to try it with a variety of other mushrooms!

By John, 16 July, 2020

Pasta with Preserved Sardines

Pasta with Preserved Sardines

This simple dish is known in Sicily as Pasta alla Milanese, or "pasta for the people of Milan". That's because Milan is well inland, so Sicilians who went north for work could not get the fresh fish that features so prominently in Sicilian cuisine, so they had to used preserved sardines with their pasta.

This is a very simple dish, but the flavor is unique and the people who tried it all liked it. I suppose it helps the poor homesick Sicilians of Milan! 

By John, 16 July, 2020

Penne Rigate with Artichokes

Penne Rigate ai Carciofi

You can make this with fresh artichokes, but canned artichoke hearts in water (not marinated) make this an easy work-night option, and a nice change if you want something without tomatoes. I find this simple dish very summery!

You can really have this ready in just the time it takes to cook the pasta, so you can save some time if you don't boil more water than you need. 

By John, 16 July, 2020

Sole Crusted with Almonds

Almond-crusted Sole

This is a great summer dish, light and easy enough to make after work. The contrast of the crunchy-buttery almonds and the tender sole is a delight. There's really not much to it, but with good ingredients the result is delicious!

We had this for a weeknight dinner with just a pasta dish, but I'd happily serve it to company with The Sultan's Onions and Molise Celery or Genoese Spinach, and a nice chilled Gavi di Gavi wine, or a small glass of cold dry vermouth (I know that's good match because that's what I had while cooking it!). 

By John, 1 July, 2020

Black Venus Rice

Riso Venere Nero

I first found this exquisite rice, known in Italy as riso venere nero,  in Portland, but now I can get it at Lo Adoro on Route 6a in Sandwich, much closer to home! 

This is attractive for a fancy dinner, and it has great flavor that pairs well with light dishes, especially seafood.

But it's tricky to cook; it's best to soak the rice first for at leat half an hour, longer is OK. Sometimes I set it out in the morning, that night it cooks up fine.

This is not a risotto rice. You cook it up more or less like white rice, but be sure to read the Instructions below. 

I have seen recipes that say to cook it like pasta in a large surplus of water, but it still has to cook a long time and you have to keep checking it; this method is easier to cook and easier for timing when you are making a fancy dinner.  

By John, 25 June, 2020

Great Single-Estate Extra-Virgin Olive Oil

Three Great Single-Estate Extra-Virgin Olive Oils

Some recipes here include a reference to "great single-estate extra-virgin olive oil" that I get from Olioveto - here are some useful thoughts on the matter for the foodie:

  • Not all "extra-virgin olive oil" is olive oil at all, and most of it is not Italian. The Mafia in Sicily and the more powerful 'Ndrangheta in Calabria have controlled and ruined that market. 
  • Most EVOO comes from Spain, and a lot from Greece, too. They are good products. They may say Italian; you can take it up with the mob. If you care about truth in what you buy, buy from a reputable dealer.
  • There's no need to cook with cold-pressed EVOO. It was cold-pressed for a reason - the heat destroys some of the compounds that make it special. Whole Foods has a dissertation on the subject here. You can cook with higher-acidity, much cheaper pomace olive oil and get most of the monounsaturated healthy stuff and save some serious shekels. 

The people who sell the single-estate oils know the business and you get what you pay (a lot) for. They are pressed from single-varieties or proprietary blends, like wines, and like wines they reflect the source olives, the terroir, and the season, not to mention the skill of the maker.

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