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By John, 28 December, 2019

An Eastern Sicilian Feast

Orange and Fennel Salad

Deep in a cold New England winter, we had John and Christina over for a Sicilian feast to brighten things up. Most of these recipes came from a fine cookbook called Sicily, and most of these were dishes that we had enjoyed in Sicily. The Sicilian names are similar to Italian but not the same, for example "cu" for "con" - Sicilian is an old and proud dialect!

I list this as Eastern Sicilian because all of the showstopper recipes are from the Eastern and Southern slopes of Mount Aetna from Messina to Siracusa and west to the ancient Greek temples at Agrigento; someday I'll do a Western Sicilian dinner that touches on Palermo, Trapani, Sciaccia, and Marsala.

Passuluna

We started light with two appetizers before moving on to soup, salad, fish, meat, and dessert courses:

By John, 28 December, 2019

Pork with Sicilian Chocolate Sauce

Pork with Savory Chocolate SauceMaiale cu Cioccolatu is a Sicilian dish of pork loin with an exquisite savory rich chocolate sauce.

The town of Modica, in inland south-eastern Sicily, is known for chocolate. We went there in 2018 as part of our Sicilian vacation, but the town itself was crowded and the driving was not fun so we got out of there, having already acquired bitter Modican chocolate at the farmers market in Siracusa.

By John, 21 December, 2019

Pistachio-Crusted Swordfish

Swordfish alla ChianaleaThis dish, called (more or less) Pisci Spata in Crusta ri Fastuchi in Sicily the Cookbook is a pistachio-crusted swordfish very like what astonished me in Chianalea, the swordfishing port of Scilla at the very tow of the boot of Italy. I say more-or-less because that recipe is for monkfish, but Scilla is all about swordfish and that's how I had it. In all other particulars, this is how to replicate that heavenly dish.

 

By John, 4 December, 2019

Caponata Croccante

Fresh caponata

This Caponata Croccante is the "crunchy caponata" on p135 of Sicily the Cookbook. 

A caponata is often a melange of flavors, typically based in eggplant and olive oil, to be served as a side salad or on crostini or bruschetta. 

This fresh caponata is finished before the final "stewing" process, making it "crunchy" but the vegetables are soft enough that it's not a problem but rather a benefit. The flavors are zesty and fresh, and it's a brilliant accompaniment to Passaluna to start a Sicilian dinner.

By John, 3 December, 2019

Passuluna

Warm black olives appetizerIt's amazing what happens when you heat olives. 

We think of olives as a kind of garnish or as a no-effort hors d'oeuvres served cold, but they respond well to heat. It unlocks rich flavors that pair with zesty ingredients like the orange and chili in this recipe.

Passuluna means specifically Sicilian salt-cured black olives, which have a wrinkly appearance. You rinse the salt first, so if you cannot find true passuluna, good black olives (not those woody horrors in the cans) work out pretty well. 

Of course you can tone down the Sicilian heat by using just one or even no chilies, but this recipe is very good as written. 

By John, 10 July, 2019

Martinez Cocktail

A Martinez, as mixed by Andrew at Front and Cooper, Santa Cruz

The origin story of this ancestor of the Martini is shrouded in fog, but it seems that it was developed in San Francisco (near Martinez, CA) in the mid-to-late 1800s, after the Manhattan but before the modern Dry Martini. The basic idea, equal parts vermouth and gin with bitters and a touch of Maraschino, is a clear descendant of the fancy cocktail formula of spirit + triple sec + bitters, except that vermouth adds complexity and Maraschino replaces the triple sec as the sweetening agent.

There's a ton of research on this classic, and a number of recipes have emerged. This version is a commonly-accepted one today, but it should by no means be considered canonical.

I did some careful reseach on this in 2019, during a vacation up the Pacific Coast from LA to Juneau, during which I sampled a number of Martinez cocktails at some very fine bars with knowledgeable mixologists. In fact, that's about the only place that you will find the Martinez, so it's good to know the recipe! 

It's still a good drink, especially to play with different gins and vermouths. It's much less alcoholic than a Martini, so it's good to have when you're out, if you're at a bar that has Maraschino. If not, try Triple Sec.

By John, 5 July, 2019

Pasta alla Norma

"Pasta alla Norma"

We had this all over Sicily and then in Rome. It's a classic Sicilian dish of simple ingredients that must be fresh and well-prepared. Make this in summertime when the eggplant is fresh and flavorful. The tomatoes can be fresh in season or canned, but canned tomatoes without preservatives are better than "fresh" tomatoes out of season (the tomatoes were fresh when they went into the can). I like Cento brand canned tomatoes.

By John, 3 July, 2019

Watermelon and Tomato Salad

Watermelon and Tomato SaladThis strange-sounding summer-time salad came to my attention when I was planning a feast to celebrate the Kentucky Derby; something similar is made at a ritzy hotel at Churchill Downs.

This is a simpler version and in my opinion better able to showcase excellent ingredients.

Moroccan Dinner with New England Treats

Mqualli fish tagine

Our friends Owen and Brigitte were visiting from Germany. They'd been intrigued by my adventures in Moroccan cooking, and I had just added to my gear an authentic Moroccan terra cotta tagine schlepped all the way from Morocco by the mother of my friend Youssef! So that became the cornerstone of the dinner, but we wanted Brigitte to try some authentic New England treats as well, so we came up with this screwy menu:

  • We opened with a Shlada 'arobiya - a traditional Moroccan salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, and fresh mint
  • The main course was a Mqualli, an elaborate fish tagine made with halibut, vegetables, and preserved lemon. I added some clams just because.
  • For an extra vegetable, I steamed up some fresh Fiddleheads because Brigitte had never tried them.
  • Dessert was a Maple Cream Pie and espresso.

The Moroccan recipes came from the collection of excellent Moroccan recipes by Christine Benlafquih at The Spruce Eats. The links above go to the recipes as I prepared them for this dinner. 

By John, 8 June, 2019

Cape Cod Fish Pie

Cape Cod Fish Pie

I whipped this up when I was confronted with the leftovers of an excellent-but-too-large haddock. It's a simple dish, homey and satisfying. 

I started with the fish flaked into a basic white sauce seasoned with dried dill and chervil, but then I thickened the sauce up with an egg yolk (see Mayonnaise for why that's a good idea) and then proceeded to top it with mashed potatoes and baked it. 

(See Notes for a confession.) 

By John, 27 February, 2019

Moroccan Dinner

Fish Tagine

We had our old friends Jim and Peg Baker over for dinner, after reconnecting with them over the Old Colony Club's 250th Birthday Gala. They wanted something on the lighter side, and something with an exotic flair. I suggested Moroccan, and they accepted. 

For personal reasons, I added a non-Moroccan cocktail and dessert, which I will explain below. 

My Le Souk Aquafish tagine

Here's what we had:

2019 - The Old Colony Club 250th Birthday Gala

The Magnificent Cheese Board, with Gerd, Megan, and Russ

I've been a member of the Old Colony Club of Plymouth for a long time. We have great formal parties there, but none as grand as the one that we put on for the 250th anniversary of the club's founding on 13 January 1769.

The gala is modeled on a seven-course formal dinner that  might have been served in 1919, but it's all served cocktail-party style, with no need for knives and big plates and tables. That's important because we had about 100 attendees! 

Trio of Soups

Before people arrived, we had set out:

  • A magnificent cheese board in the Presidents Room. We had about two dozen excellent cheeses (over $500 worth!), mostly from The Cheese Shop in Concord, MA.
  • A beautiful array of crudites and steamed vegetables with Le Grand Aioli and other dips that covered an 8-foot banquet table in the Red Room. 
  • An embarrassingly opulent charcuterie display in the Snug, representing Italy, France, Poland, Russia, Spain, and the USA, among others.

This enabled early arrivals to explore and graze until the formal courses came up from the kitchen.

The Galantine, made by Don Reeder

Here's what we had:

By John, 21 February, 2019

Cassoulet de Castelnaudary

Cassoulet de CastelnaudaryThis is the classic cassoulet recipe lightly adapted to the American kitchen from the master recipe published by the Grande Confrérie du Cassoulet de Castelnaudary. 

And if you're a cassoulet nerd of the fanatical variety, then you need to know about D'Artagnan's annual Cassoulet War in New York City!

Here I'll do my best to present something authentic and cookable.   

By John, 1 January, 2019

Fare-Thee-Well

Fare Thee Well cocktailThis is a simple variation on a classic Martini: add a couple of dashes each of Sweet Vermouth and Triple Sec.

A dash isn't much, and two dashes is twice not much - you still can't call it much. This is like spicing up a Martini with a dash or two of Orange Bitters - but this one got a name. 

The biggest trick with this one is figuring out how to get a dash of Sweet Vermouth or Triple Sec from a bottle that's meant for pouring. I just pour a few drops as carefully as I can and call it close enough for my needs. 

By John, 10 December, 2018

Champagne Cocktail

Champagne CocktailThis is an easy way to turn your boring New Year's Eve toast into something more tasty, if you're working with cheap champagne. Just add a sugar cube baptized with 2 dashes of the bitters of your choice.

These were a big hit at the Old Colony Club's Casablanca-themed party in 2018. 

A related cocktail is the French 75, also hugely popular. This, of course, begs the question "Will I get in trouble if I add a little gin to my Champagne Cocktail?" - I won't tell anyone if you do!

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