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By John, 15 February, 2021

Scattone

ScattoneThis is just a quick pick-me-up drink for a cold afternoon when you are cooking pasta.

The pasta water already has salt, and some starch from the cooking pasta.  You add a full-bodied inexpensive red wine, a pinch of pepper, and maybe a few flakes of dried red pepper if you like. 

This is particularly welcome after shoveling snow when you come in cold and wet and you smell dinner cooking! 

By John, 15 February, 2021

Frittata of Sage

Frittata alla SalviaThis is about a simple as it gets, and it's delicious in its simplicity. You must use fresh sage for this.

I have seen photos of this with the sage leaves visible in the finished frittata, but I have never yet had the patience to try one that picture-perfect when it will be in my belly in 5 minutes... 

By John, 15 February, 2021

Risotto with Sausage and Cheese

Risotto with Sausage and CheeseHere's one of those hearty rib-sticking dinners that must surely be unhealthy but it's mighty comforting on a cold January night!

This uses two very different cheeses: the Taleggio adds robust flavor, but you can substitute Italian Fontina or Parmigiana-Reggiano), and the Scamorza brings a stringy-zingy cheesy fun to the dish (a smoked Scamorza is just at stringy and adds a nice smoky flavor for a snowy night).  

By John, 24 January, 2021

Norwegian Stockfish

Cod is consumed all over Italy even though it is not caught in Italian waters. Stockfish is North Atlantic Cod caught and dried in Norway; it has been part of Italian cuisine for centuries since it was brought by Norman conquerors a thousand years ago.

It's especially used in the winter and in interior areas where it's harder to get fresh fish. Stockfish (stoccafiso) has to be refreshed just like Salt Cod (and many of the recipes are the same), but stockfish is even dryer so it must be refreshed for a coupe of days or more.

There are lesser grades used in West African cooking, but for Italian cooking you want the expensive Grade A. I got this bag from an importer in Houston, so the dried fish travelled thousands of miles to get to my kitchen!

By John, 23 January, 2021

Pesto di Noce

Walnut PestoHere's another pesto from Liguria, this one made with walnuts! It's great on different ravioli, especially those filled with butternut squash or with cheese, and it's really something on lobster-filled ravioli!
By John, 23 January, 2021

Sole with Peppers

Sole with PeppersThis is an easy dish with fine simple flavors, especially if you use farm-fresh peppers and tomatoes in the summertime. 

It would be easy to jazz this up with some basil or marjoram, or some olives or chili peppers... but the simple flavor of the peppers is wonderful with the sole and it really should be allowed to come though in its own simple glory. 

By John, 22 January, 2021

Cotechino with Lentils

Cotechino with LentilsHere's a traditional New Year's Eve dish eaten all over Italy! The lentils are supposed to remind you of an abundance of coins, suggesting prosperity in the coming year.

Cotechino is an ancient variety of fatty pork sausage that goes very well with lentils. Fresh cotechino are hard to come by, but you can buy shelf-stable vacuum-packed precooked cotechino from Levoni - that's what I used here and it was delicious.

By John, 18 January, 2021

Patate alla Scamorza

Potatoes with Scamorza CheeseHere's a vegetarian dish that's easy to make and fun to eat. Scamorza is a very stretchy-stringy-melty cheese.

It includes a teaspoon of curry powder, which might seem out of place in Italian cooking. Remember Marco Polo! Italian chefs included eastern spices in their pantries long before the potato was introduced from the New World. 

By John, 16 January, 2021

Deviled Eggs

Lorna's Deviled Eggs

This homey treat is a fixture at church picnics and art-show receptions, but it deserves much broader appreciation. You'll notice when they are set out at an event, they're among the first dishes to disappear. 

I like to make these on rainy or snowy days when we plan to be in the house all day catching up on chores. These make an easy protein-based grazing lunch when you don't want to take time to sit at the table an noon. 

This is a dish that rewards creativity, and you keep an eye on balancing flavors, you can't really mess it up. Here's the version that Lorna likes. 

By John, 21 December, 2020

Herb-Perfumed Meatballs

Herb-Perfumed Pork MeatballsI had some ground pork looking for a way to be useful and this recipe looked intriguing - I love it!

The pork is mixed with ground almonds and fresh rosemary and sage, then formed into meatballs that are cooked on skewers of the rosemary branches that provided the rosemary needles in the pork!

There's a lot of ingredients here, but nothing weird. The trickiest part is getting multiple soft, uncooked meatballs intact onto the rosemary skewers! 

By John, 19 December, 2020

Bell Pepper Risotto

Bell Pepper Risotto

This is a nice, light, colorful risotto, bright red streaks against a white-golden risotto, with great flavor too. 

It's vegetarian, and it could easily be made vegan by substituting something for the parmesan cheese that you stir in at the end. 

By John, 19 December, 2020

Farfalle ai Gamberi

Shrimp & ButterfliesThis is a popular combination: shrimp and peas on pasta in a light butter-white wine sauce.

It cooks up quickly and you can use frozen peas and shrimp and dried pasta so it's one of those recipes that you can whip up on short notice, and it makes an easy weeknight dinner.

By John, 19 December, 2020

Valle d'Aosta Polenta Pasticciata

Valle d'Aosta Polenta PasticciataA pasticciata is a mess of something, and many recipes based on polenta are called Polenta Pasticciata con something or alla someplace. This one is in the style of Valle d'Aosta, way up in the far Northwest, up against the French Alps, so that means is uses the famous Fontina cheese, of which the best is the name-protected Fontina Valle d'Aosta.

The cheese is not stirred into the polenta when it cooks, but rather you take a stiff cooked polenta and layer it with cheese and butter and then melt it all together into a rich golden gooey mess - a pasticciata. This is a hearty cold-weather treat.

By John, 19 December, 2020

Mutton Chops all'Inglese

Broiled Mutton Chops

I found some mutton chops at Brown's Farm in Boothbay Harbor, Maine. I'd always been curious about mutton, so I bought them. I was surprised to see that the favorite Italian preparation of mutton chops is Costolette all'Inglese, or Mutton Chop in the English Style!

This is a very simple recipe. In my opinion, the best value of having it written down at all is just to be quite clear how very simple it is: just broil the chops with butter and serve with salt and pepper.

Mutton is meat from an adult sheep, as opposed to lamb from the young sheep. Even mutton is seldom from very aged sheep, which is said to be quite gamey, but I'd like to try it sometime.

By John, 18 December, 2020

Pasta alla Puttanesca

Pasta alla PuttanescaThis well-known favorite dates back less than a hundred years. It was invented on the Neapolitan island of Ischia in the 1950s by a creative host who had hungry guests and little in the icebox to work with.

In Italian, "puttanesca" means something like "trashy", and it can be applied to prostitutes and to pasta preparations. In this case the inventive chef gave his dish a provocative name that reflected its scrounged origins and delighted his guests!

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