
We had left Tuscany for the charming and ancient central hill-towns of Italy, in our case Orvieto, which had utterly captured our hearts in 2015.
It was luck that brought us there that first time. Having had too much fun in Tuscany, we were not going to get to the Tivoli Gardens in time. As we approached Orvieto, I recalled reading about it, and I remembered its wine. That was a good enough excuse to make the turn into an unexpected wonderland. We changed our later plans to return en route to Genoa instead of taking the coastal route, so this was our third visit to Orvieto.
After that extraordinary dinner at Tar-Tufo in Siena, we arrived pretty late in Orvieto. We wound our way up the hill until we were near the grand piazza near the imposing Duomo. That's where we were stopped by two carabinieri (like State Police, but friendlier and more heavily armed) at the dreaded ZTL.