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By John, 9 December, 2020

Salsa Verde Modenese

Mild Green Sauce of Modena

This mild green sauce has a base of chopped hard-cooked eggs, parsley, and olive oil, seasoned with garlic, lemon zest, and capers.

It is used with the "Modena Meatloaf Polpettone alla Modenese. This should not be confused with the Piquant Green Sauce that goes with the Genoese Cappon Magro.

 

By John, 9 December, 2020

Polpettone alla Modenese

Meatloaf of Modena

This translates to "Meatloaf in the style of Modena", but it's really more like a cross between a traditional American meatloaf and a French ballotine or galantine: It has many ingredients mixed into the meat, and then it's poached in a fish poacher rather than baked.

This is traditionally served with boiled vegetables and Salsa Verde Modenese. 

By John, 15 November, 2020

Swordfish alla Ghiotta

Swordfish for the GluttonHere's another classic Sicilian presentation of their beloved swordfish, this one "for the glutton"! 

It's a pretty dish, and hearty with cherry tomatoes and green olives, suitable for company but easy enough for a weeknight.  

By John, 15 November, 2020

Italian Sausages and Turnips

Sausages with TurnipsThis is a simple, homey dish, and a good combination for a ribsticking winter lunch.

Lorna had secured a big fat Eastham turnip, knowing how well I like those, so even though it's not an Italian variety, it did a great job in this dish. 

There's a lot of confusion in these parts with regard to the humble turnip. If you care about such details, I refer you to New England Heirloom Turnips & Rutabagas. The executive summary is this: turnips tend to be small and white inside, and the large yellow-fleshed root often referred to in New England is really a rutabaga. In the photo above there's only the Eastham turnip (white inside); the orangey pieces were colored by the sausage fat.

By John, 15 November, 2020

Trout Baked in Red Wine

Trout Baked in Red Wine

Here's a strange and delicious dish from the mountains of Valle d'Aosta.

It's odd to see fish and red wine together. It works here, but you want to use a lighter Piedmont red like a Dolcetto or a simple Nebbiolo, or an inexpensive Pinot Noir or Chianti. 

You make a sauce by preparing a regular soffritto and cooking it in the wine, then you thicken it with a roux, so there's flavor and texture that you want to complement the trout. The fish is baked whole or headless in the skin, so when the diner takes a fish and opens it on the plate, s/he can spoon on as much or as little sauce as desired.

By John, 15 November, 2020

Potatoes in White Butter Sauce

Potatoes in White Butter SauceHere's an easy potato dish when you want something lighter than a scalloped potatoes and more interesting than Steamed New Potatoes or Italian Roast Potatoes. Parsley, chives, and butter are all natural allies of the humble potato, and the shallots and white wine bring it to another level.

There's one tricky part to this recipe: you have to quickly peel and slice the potatoes when they are hot from boiling. To do this, I keep a bowl of cold water in the sink so I can cool off my fingers and the outside of the potato while I work. 

By John, 15 November, 2020

Haddock with Capers

Haddock with Tomatoes and CapersThis simple and flavorful recipe works with any white fish, including halibut and swordfish. It's great for a weeknight because it's easy, and while it's not as quick as some other recipes, you don't have to hang over the pan the whole time.
By John, 15 November, 2020

Pasta all'Arrabbiata

Penne all'ArrabbiataThis pasta dish is characterized by the inclusion of a fresh chili pepper in a simple sauce of tomatoes cooked in garlic-scented oil. Arrabbiata is an Italian word for angry; that's the chili pepper. Naturally depending upon your tolerance for angry tomatoes, you can add as much chili pepper as you like. This version is quite mild, with just the taste of the pepper and very little heat.

You can use dry or fresh chilies. If you use dried chilies, don't chop them and then they are easy to remove so nobody accidentally get more than they expected.

This is traditionally served with short pasta like penne or ziti. 

By John, 15 November, 2020

Shrimp Marsala

Shrimp MarsalaThis is another of those dishes that you see more often in American restaurants than in Italian ones, but this one is authentically Sicilian, as Marsala wine comes from Marsala town on the western tip of Sicily.

The original recipe calls for grilling the shrimp on skewers, but I do this even in inclement weather by pan-frying the shrimp instead. 

By John, 9 November, 2020

Polenta con Funghi

Polenta with MushroomsThis is a humble classic dish of Piedmont and Valle d'Aosta, in the mountainous northwestern corner of Italy.

Mushrooms are common in the cooking of the mountain regions, especially in the fall and winter months. Here, a mix of varieties is sauteed and served atop a hearty polenta enriched with a bit of aromatic local Fontina cheese.

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