Sicily

This is a delicious pasta dish made with the bewitching pink Sicilian Pesto Trapanese, completely different from the green Ligurian pesto so familiar to American diners. The pesto from Trapani uses crushed almonds, tomatoes, and cheese, rather than the basil and pine nuts of the Genoese version.

Unlike northern pasta dishes that are often served with ravioli and other fresh egg pastas, the southern ones are more often served with dried pasta like the wonderful IGP-protected Pasta di Gragnano.

This traditional Italian semolina bread is delicious and fun to make, but it doesn't keep very well. Fortunately it does freeze well.

The dough is easy to work with. It can be baked into many shapes; the sesame-sprinkled s-shape shown here is the occhi di Santa Lucia, or the eyes of Saint Lucy.

Maiale cu Cioccolatu is a Sicilian dish of pork loin with an exquisite savory rich chocolate sauce.

The town of Modica, in inland south-eastern Sicily, is known for chocolate. We went there in 2018 as part of our Sicilian vacation, but the town itself was crowded and the driving was not fun so we got out of there, having already acquired bitter Modican chocolate at the farmers market in Siracusa.

This dish, called (more or less) Pisci Spata in Crusta ri Fastuchi in Sicily the Cookbook is a pistachio-crusted swordfish very like what astonished me in Chianalea, the swordfishing port of Scilla at the very tow of the boot of Italy. I say more-or-less because that recipe is for monkfish, but Scilla is all about swordfish and that's how I had it. In all other particulars, this is how to replicate that heavenly dish.

This Caponata Croccante is the "crunchy caponata" on p135 of Sicily the Cookbook. 

A caponata is often a melange of flavors, typically based in eggplant and olive oil, to be served as a side salad or on crostini or bruschetta. 

This fresh caponata is finished before the final "stewing" process, making it "crunchy" but the vegetables are soft enough that it's not a problem but rather a benefit. The flavors are zesty and fresh, and it's a brilliant accompaniment to Passaluna to start a Sicilian dinner.

It's amazing what happens when you heat olives. 

We think of olives as a kind of garnish or as a no-effort hors d'oeuvres served cold, but they respond well to heat. It unlocks rich flavors that pair with zesty ingredients like the orange and chili in this recipe.

Passuluna means specifically Sicilian salt-cured black olives, which have a wrinkly appearance. You rinse the salt first, so if you cannot find true passuluna, good black olives (not those woody horrors in the cans) work out pretty well. 

Of course you can tone down the Sicilian heat by using just one or even no chilies, but this recipe is very good as written.