Maccheroni al Limone is a delicious light pasta dish for summer. A small serving makes a great appetizer because it wakes up your taste buds without filling you up.

This is also good with angel hair pasta and some filled pastas.

This beef braciole is a fundamental part of a traditional Neapolitan Sunday dinner, simmered slowly in a tomato puree that becomes the sauce for the ziti or rigatoni that always accompanies it. It's loaded with great flavor from long simmering of fine ingredients.

This is my favorite of the Four Classic Roman Pasta Dishes. It's essentially a Pasta Cacio e Pepe in which you first fry up a batch of chopped guanciale and stir the pasta into the bacon fat. Then you add the finely grated cheese like in the Cacio e Pepe to make the sauce. When you use top quality ingredients and good IGP pasta di Gragnano, it's simple and simply wonderful!

Rigatoni or other short, ribbed pasta is traditional for this dish. Shown here is Mezze Maniche from Pasta Somma in Gragnano.

This is one of the four classic Roman pasta dishes, along with Pasta Cacio e Pepe, Pasta alla Gricia, and Pasta alla Carbonara. This one has a light zesty tomato sauce enriched with guanciale (smoke pork jowl).

Here's a simple and very classic dish from Naples. There are very few ingredients, so quality is of top importance. I call here for top quality canned tomatoes: that's because the best brands have a reputation to maintain, the tomatoes are ripe when they are canned, so they are far better than "fresh" supermarket tomatoes in January in New England. Of course if you can get farm-fresh tomatoes in August and September, by all means use them! But the rest of the time you will probably be happier with canned tomatoes from an excellent producer. The onion, cheese, and basil must also be of good quality, and that's about all there is to this sauce.

Of course it's best served on high-quality pasta, too, which means for a Neapolitan recipes you want Pasta di Gragnano if you can get it.

This was developed in New York City in 1967 and it became an instant classic. It is usually served with penne pasta, but any short pasta works well, rigatoni is also common.

You might wonder: Why vodka? It has so little flavor, what can it contribute to this rich combination of tomatoes, cream, and cheese? This sauce is a bright tomato sauce with the richness and color from the cream. But cream dulls the tomato, so we need to punch up the flavor. A generous dose of doppio tomato paste helps to attain this worthy goal. Then the vodka seems to brighten it up, to help the acidity of the tomatoes break through the richness of the cream and cheese. You don't see many tradition Italian sauces that include both tomatoes and cream; maybe it was this innovation that opened up a new option.

This classic from the tiny region of Molise on the Adriatic coast is simple and delicious, but the quality of the ingredients is important. The sauce is just diced guanciale with onion, garlic, basil, and parsley.  You need good pancetta or guanciale, and fresh herbs work out better than dried herbs.

Unlike the fine folk of Molise, my usual diners are not so eager to scorch their tongues, so I left the chili pepper whole, and served it with a little homemade chili-infused olive oil. I got a little fire, not a raging bonfire. Feel free to chop your chili as you see fit! 

This version of spaghetti and meatballs comes from Abbruzzo but it is eaten all over Italy. Spaghetti alla Chitarra (say key-TAH-rra) is a long pasta that is traditionally made fresh, then rolled into sheets as thick as uncooked spaghetti and pressed onto a chitarra, a frame with many long closely-spaced parallel wires. The resulting spaghetti is square in cross section. The square chitarra pasta has more surface area than round spaghetti so it holds more sauce.

Spaghetti alla chitarra is served many ways, but one of the most traditional ways is with a simple tomato sauce and tiny meatballs called pallottine.

This is like Snails in the Burgundy Style (Escargot) from the other side of the Alps. The Piedmont is also a wine growing region, famous for well-known wines such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, Gavi, Moscato d'Asti, and more. All of those grape leaves have long produced a quantity of vineyard snails that the Italians prepare in their own way, also with a garlic-parsley-butter but enlivened into a pesto with walnuts and an anchovy.  

You can serve these fancy, in snail shells as shown here set in a deviled-egg plate, or without the shells in a snail dish (a simple plate with depressions to hold the snail butter and snails, or just in a serving dish just big enough to hold everything.

This one is for a special occasion! You make a simple stuffing of mostly crab meat, fold fillets of sole over the filling, and poach. When it's done you reduce the cooking liquid and enrich it with lobster stock and butter.

A paupiette is just a thin fillet of fish or piece of meat filled with something savory. They are typically braised or baked in wine or stock. They're very popular in France, and you can often buy them ready-to-cook.

Cacio e Pepe (say KAHT-cho ay PEP-ay) is a traditional Roman dish of local pasta dressed with a wonderfully cheesy sauce that, like Fettucini Alfredo, has a creamy texture but no cream. The zip of the black pepper heightens the richness of the cheese and butter that, together with some starchy pasta water, form the sauce. 

The method here was developed by J. Kenji López-Alt of Serious Eats, one of my favorite food blogs, with his trademark attention to optimizing a recipe to highlight the best parts of a dish.

This golden oldie was invented in the 1890s by the early master Harry Johnson, and freshened up a century later by modern cocktail engineer and historian Dale DeGroff.  It's on the sweet side but nicely balanced by the generous dose of orange bitters.