Saturday Morning in Worcester

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Best of Show
Worcester, then Maine
Best of Show: 
Ed Hyder's Mediterranean Marketplace

Worcester City HallI love Worcester. You can go around the world without leaving the city. In Worcester, I have shopped or dined: Armenian, Swedish, Ghanaian, Korean, Irish, Greek, Japanese, Lebanese, Russian, Vietnamese, French, Polish, Italian, and Yankee. I have had kim-chee, cow's foot, and ham and eggs (not at the same meal!). 

And of course the range of restaurants in Worcester runs the usual gamut from the hash-houses to the excellent, Remember that Worcester does not suffer from the Tourist Effect: nobody goes to Worcester for the scenery, so the food has to be good!

George's Coney Island Hot DogsI lived in New York City for many years, but one of my favorite neon signs in all the world is in Worcester, and it's all about hot dogs.

Worcester is home to the classic diner, and boasts many excellent ones in various stages of renovation or destruction.

So it should come as no surprise that when I am lucky enough to find myself in that hotbed of ethnic foodie excellence, I look for things that are hard to find elsewhere, or that are expensive in gourmet shops but inexpensive and common in some ther cuisine.

And my favorite spice-seller is there. Ed Hyder's Mediterranean Marketplace is a my go-to place for spices and other unusual or rare goodies.

Sunset from Cadillac Mountain

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Best of Show
Bar Harbor, ME
Best of Show: 
Marshall Wharf ale with a local island burger at McKay's Public House

Bar Harbor Sunset

We started our day with breakfast in Portland, and then made tracks downeast on a glorious early spring day. Our destination was Bar Harbor and Cadillac Mountain, in Acadia National Park. We made it in good time, but arrived at the gate only to find it closed. A friendly ranger seeing our disappointed faces, hurried over to tell us some happy news: he had to make some rounds, but he would re-open the gate in an hour, so we would be able to get up the mountain in time for the sunset.

 McKay's Public House, Bar HarborWe headed into Bar Harbor, just a mile from the gate, and looked at our rather limited options for April dining in Bar Harbor. We saw that an old favorite, McKay's Public House, was open and serving, and we were able to be seated right away. That was good not only considering our rush for the sunset, but also because right after we were seated the placed filled up more crowded that a lifeboat from the Titanic! (This weekend being the 100th anniversary of that disaster, many people were dressed in Edwardian formal dress, and the waitstaff were dressed as ship's crew.

We were a bit nonplussed over the celebration, but the dinner was excellent.

Saturday Morning in Portland

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Best of Show
Portland, ME
Best of Show: 
Breakfast at the Farmer's Table

The Farmer's Table, Portland, MEWe explored Portland for a little while in the morning, and made a few discoveries.Best of Show has to go to The Farmer's Table, a seriously locavore place on the waterfront with outdoor and indoor dining. I had an omelet with Pineland Farms cheddar cheese and Maine Grind breakfast sausage, with black coffee. Lorna had grilled salmon on arugula. Everything was fresh, expertly prepared, and delicious.

The Farmer's Table serves dinner too, so we are sure to be back for that. I was happy to see that the bar features a number of local and New England spirits, including  Cold River Gin and almost all of the Berkshire Distillery products.

We made a few other discoveries and acquisitions of note. The Corner General Store had many Maine microbrews in a cooler, as well as the whole line of Maine Meadworks sweet and dry meads. I grabbed a Needham for the road, but didn't need it because...

Lorna had visited Dean's Sweets in search of something fancy in white chocolate. She was disappointed, but the true chocoholic won't be: they make rich, super-chocolate decadent truffles by hand in the shop.

Easter Kites at Beavertail

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Best of Show
Jamestown, RI
Best of Show: 
The Crepes Suzettes at Moulin Rouge

Kites over BeavertailOn Easter Sunday we left cloudy Plymouth behind to find the sun over Narragansett Bay before heading back to Massachusetts for some Easter family time. We had three destinations in mind, and then exploring until sundown.

We had an early dinner at the Moulin Rouge restaurant in Tiverton. We had discovered it only a few weeks previously, and Lorna has dreamed about the Crepes Suzettes ever since.  Crepes Suzettes are a deceptively simple dish made with good ingredients and a lot of flair: a couple of crepes, some orange-butter, and some Grand Marnier, flambeed tableside and served hot - exquisite! The dinner was excellent and the dessert was as imagined.

BlithewoldWe crossed the bridge to our old friend Blithewold afterward, where the daffodils were in full bloom. The weather was a little cool, but not too cool to explore the grounds and the house for a good hour or more.

Then we went down to Newport, stopping briefly at the well-stocked Vicker's Liquors for a bottle of Maine Meadworks Dry Mead to share with family that evening, before continuing over the Pell Bridge to Jamestown on Conanicut Island.

The south end of Jamestown has many grand homes, many of which are for sale.

The Hero Islands in Lake Champlain

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Best of Show
North Hero, VT
Best of Show: 
Maple Ambrosia Wine at Hillis' Sugarbush Farm, Colchester

The view from Shore Acres Inn, North Hero, VTThe days are getting longer, so we can extend our range. Yesterday we made it to the far corner of New England, to North Hero, VT in Lake Champlain.

North Hero is one town south of the Canadian border and a kayak ride from New York. The islands are beautiful flat farmland, with stunning vistas of the lake and the mountains beyond on both sides. If you time your dinner reservation right, you can drive homeward during the long sunset over the Adirondacks. Now that's a dessert!

We had also spent a few hours in Burlington, first at the Fleming Art Museum at University of Vermont, and then shopping in town, so we had less time than usual for exploring the backroads and byways. We did make it out to Malletts Bay but then we had to make tracks for North Hero.

Hillis' Sugarbush FarmAlong the way we could not resist one stop: almost to the first island on Route 2,we saw a homemade sign for wine and maple products, next left. We ended up following a gravel road into the woods, emerging by a humble farm shed with an "open" flag.

Shad Roe

Shad Roe, UncookedI love shad roe.

It's a very seasonal thing, appearing briefly when the shadbush and forsythia are in bloom, and, in these parts, around Opening Day. Spring is here, with tempestuous weather turning mild and brown fields turning green, fresh Asparagus and Pea Greens and sun-kissed strawberries are not far behind.

Shad roe is not pretty. It looks like a pair of lungs. You can find lots of details with a quick web search; the important thing to know is that is is very seasonal, very regional, and usually very hard to find without a reliable fishmonger. 

It is also very delicate; a slip of the knife can spill the precious eggs and make it much more difficult to prepare and serve.

We found some, in one market by luck and in another by special order.  We served it with another delicacy in our Shad Roe and Halibut Cheeks dinner.

Shad Roe, CookedI suppose there are some clever chefs who could find some way to present it attractively, but my advice is to concentrate your efforts on the preparation and let the presentation follow as needed.

I always use the butter-poaching method in Jasper White's Cooking from New England.

Shad Roe and Halibut Cheeks

Shad Roe in Butter SauceBy a stroke of great good fortune, I finally found my long-sought Shad Roe on the same weekend that Richmond lucked into four fine halibut cheeks. Obviously we had to build a dinner around our acquisitions!

The shad roe recipe is my favorite from Jasper White's Cooking from New England. The rest of the recipes we just made up.

The Menu:

  • We started, as we so often do, with a cheese discovery. In this case it was Three Cheeses from Narragansett Creamery.
  • We had the shad roe for an opener. I poached it in butter, then browned the butter and added minced anchovies, capers, parsley, and ham for a sauce. 
  • That was rich, so we sampled Three Dry Vermouths, which went very nicely with the fish. These were supplemented through the meal by Lillet Blanc and Cocchi Americano.
  • We followed the shad roe with Annette's salad of arugula, pine nuts, and other goodies.

Both sides of Boothbay Harbor

Type of Post: 
Best of Show
East Boothbay, ME
Best of Show: 
The Harbor Fish Market, in Portland

The view from Ocean PointSaturday's expedition broughts us some classic views of Maine's mid-coast region on both sides of the Sheepscot River. The views got better and better as we meandered through Westport, ME past Wiscassett and Boothbay Harbor to East Boothbay and Ocean Point. We had left the rain behind us somewhere around Portsmouth so the day was beautiful and the colors were gorgeous.

It is early spring even in Maine, so the daffodils were up and the forsythia and shadbush were blooming. As every foodie knows, when the forsythia blooms, the foodie's thoughts turn to Shad Roe! I had hoped to score some two weeks ago in the Hudson Valley, and last week in Rhode Island, but failed on both counts. I had placed an order at The Market at the Pinehills in Plymouth, but I was not sure they could get it for me. How frustrating! Shad roe season was winging away in beautiful spring days...

The harbor Fish Market

We passed through Portland on our way north, so I made a detour to the Harbor Fish Market down on the waterfront. I had read about it on the web, but had never been there. 

What a discovery!

Exploring eastern Rhode Island

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Best of Show
Bristol, Newport, and Little Compton, RI
Best of Show: 
Clamcakes and black coffee at Reidy's in Portsmouth

Blithewold Daffodil DaysWe explored eastern Rhode Island yesterday. Our primary objective was to catch the thousands and thousands of daffodils in bloom at Blithewold, an historic mansion in Bristol, RI, but I took advantage of the opportunity to explore the Ocean State east of Narragansett Bay. It was a productive expedition!

Reidy's in Portsmouth, RIWalking the grounds of Blithewold worked up something of an appetite. I wanted something Rhode Island, and I got it at Reidy's Family Restaurant in Portsmouth, between Bristol and Newport. Reidy's is a pleasant, homey little place on Rte 138 that proudly advertises their "bottomless coffee cup".

That's a good thing, because I wanted to try their clam cakes, and Lorna had a design on their whole-belly fried clams; all that fried food might grease up the palate without something to cut it. It was too early for a 'Gansett, so black coffee was in order. Rhody Lunch at Reidy's

Here's what we got:

The clamcakes were light and perfectly cooked, delicately savory and not at all greasy.

Across the Hudson and into the Catskills

Type of Post: 
Best of Show
Olana Historic Site
Best of Show: 
Last Chance Cheese in Tannersville, NY

Olana, home of painter Frederick ChurchWe chased after the springtime sunshine and found it in the Hudson Valley. Our primary objective was the fabulous Olana, home of superstar 19th-century Hudson River School painter Frederick Church. Like the Mark Twain House in Hartford, Olana shows what can be done with money and taste, and its views of the Hudson are unparalleled. And of course, there is plenty to see and do in the Hudson Valley, which is quite reachable from most of New England except Maine and the upper reaches of NH.

Of course, being intrepid pilgrims, reaching the Hudson was not enough to satisfy our wanderlust, so we crossed the river at Rhinebeck, NY, slipped through Saugerties, and charged up Route 23a into the mountains. Church and his teacher Thomas Cole painted many famous scenes of the Catskills, especially the dramatic and justly-famous Kaaterskill Falls.

Last Chance CheeseIt really is a spectacular ride, and a rewarding one for foodies. At the top of the mountain is Tannersville, NY, a colorful little ski town (near Hunter Mountain) with some quirky shops, none quirkier than Last Chance Cheese.

We have visited Last Chance many times since first discovering it maybe 15 years ago.

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