Glorious Goosefat

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Plymouth, MA
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Rillettes and Confit d'Oie at the Old Colony Club

RillettesIn early October, the Old Colony Club had a Colonial Tavern Dinner. The cook roasted three fat geese, and I got the carcasses and a generous portion of the goosefat.

Goosefat is a wonderful savory fat for cooking, but it has other uses. The French, especially in the deep south formerly known as Aquitaine, put it to use in Rillettes and in Confit d'Oie, so I did the same.

Rillettes is a spreadable sort of very rich pate made of the leftover meat and fat pounded together with the quatre epices (lots of pepper, a little each of clove, nutmeg, and ginger). I served it on thin baguette slices, and on crackers when the baguette ran out.Confit d'Oie

Confit d'Oie is preserved goose; chunks of seasoned, cooked goose packed in melted goosefat to exclude air, and then chilled to solidify the fat.

I planned to serve it sizzling in a chafing dish, but we had no Sterno so I served it from on a hot plate with toothpicks beside it, and more crackers.

Both the confit and the rillettes were very popular, so the ritual will be repeated during the cold-weather months until the supply is gone.

North Quabbin Garlic and Arts Festival

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Orange, MA
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18 varieties of garlic to sample!

NQG&A FestivalWhat a discovery! We were driving from Worcester northwest along Rte 122 toward Rte 2 and Greenfield, just out exploring. We had left the suburbs of Worcester far behind and were very near the Quabbin Reservoir when we say a bright orange sign proclaiming the North Quabbin Garlic and Arts Festival!

Well I ask you what foodie could pass up a serendipitous garlic and arts fest? We followed the signs along the twisting roads and came upon another world.

The event filled a large field, with a sort of locavore food court on a small wooded hill overlooking the tents of the main event. The food was all good local fare, and creative - that's where I tried my first garlic ice cream...

We really got into some trouble there. The festival went way beyond garlic. I bought about 18 different heirloom tomatoes for a tomato-tasting event, and a dozen types of garlic for a garlic tasting event, and about a half-dozen different varieties of new potatoes. I don't even eat potatoes! It was a temporary aberration, to be sure. A sort of locavore foodie shopper's high. But we sure had fun sampling those tomatoes and garlic!

Ale the Colonial Way

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Portsmouth, NH
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Cask Ale at the Coat of Arms

Thumper on CaskRaindrops on roses and whiskers on kittens are all very nice, but they don't make it into my Top 10 for My Favorite Things (most of which can be found in these pages). One of my favorite things is Cask-Conditioned Ale, and one of my very favorite things is Shipyard Brewery Old Thumper Extra Special Ale fresh from a hand-pulled cask.

This marvelous malty elixir can be had all the time (as far as I can tell) upstairs at the Coat of Arms Pub in Portsmouth.

There are many fine discoveries in Portsmouth; it's a shopper's paradise. For the most part, though, I let Lorna do the shopping while I ponder the delights of a fine fresh cask-conditioned ale and scribble down my thoughts.

Scotch EggThere's more to the Coat of Arms than the ale, though. You can try a draft Strongbow cider as well. And you can eat traditional delicacies like the Scotch Egg with hot English Mustard!

I wonder why Lorna never wants to eat there? ;-)

Richmond's Piedmont Birthday Feast

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What's on my Plate?

Richmond's birthday is in June, when the farmers' markets are starting to fill up with fresh veggies and Strawberries are at their peak.

This feast was one of my four-part Exploring Italy series, set in northwestern Italy: Piedmont, Liguria, and Val d'Aosta. Most of the dishes came from Anna Del Conte's The Classic Food of Northern Italy with a couple from The Silver Spoon Cookbook.

We had:

  • We opened the meal with an antipasto of Fontina Val d'Aosta cheese and artichoke hearts, white anchovies, and olives, refreshed by a bottle of good Lambrusco, and some Martini and Rossi Dry Vermouth on the rocks.
  • This was followed by the Ligurian Capon Maggro, an awesome structure of seafood on a mound of steamed vegetables, held together by a fabulous piquant green sauce.
  • Next came a Roast Beet and Cheese Ravioli with Pesto alla Genovese and a Green Bean Tourte.
  • Then came White Truffle Risotto, a classic Piedmont flavor, accompanying a rich Chicken with Mushrooms and Cream featuring multiple types of mushrooms.
  • With the meal we enjoyed a Batasiolo Barolo 2001 and an Alessandria Barbera d'Alba 2009.
  • We finished with the non-Italian but seasonal Frozen Strawberry Torte.

The feast was held on Sunday, 19 June 2011.

Attendees were John and Lorna, Richmond and Annette

Bahnan's Market

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Bahnan's MarketI have shopped at Henri Bahnan's store since it was a tiny bakery making Armenian peda bread. I would ride over on my bicycle and get a loaf of the bread hot off the oven-conveyor. Bahnan's also had a crowded skinny storefront where he sold middle-eastern spices and other ingredients. This was maybe 25 years ago.

Today, Bahnan's International Marketplace, Bakery, and Cafe is a much larger, thriving operation. It is still my go-to place when I need Greek or middle eastern foods, spices, and other goodies. It is the only place I know I can always get the Dodonis Feta that I use to make my celebrated Spanakopita, and the heavier country fillo that I use in that popular recipe. I buy my olive oil there, and the roasted unsalted hazelnuts that I use in my Buche de Noel every Christmastime.

Bahnan's is conveniently located just a few doors down from Ed Hyder's Mediterranean Marketplace, another must-visit while in Worcester.

Foliage and Fine Ale

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Fryeburg, ME
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Artisanal ales at Ebenezer's Pub

Ebenezer's PubWe set out early, but not early enough to beat the traffic to the Fryeburg Fair, a great agricultural fair in western Maine not far from North Conway, NH. By the time we reached the outskirts of Fryeburg (a long way indeed from Plymouth!) the traffic was at a standstill, so we took a left turn and headed north through the Maine portion of the White Mountain National Forest.

It was one of the best foliage drives we had ever taken, the more so because we ended up at the legendary Ebenezer's Pub in tiny Lovell, ME.

Ebenezer's is a funny space by a golf course with an astonishing array of micro- and nono-brews, Belgian Ales, and other treats. It is defiinitely a destination, the sort of place you can go to try something you won't find anywhere else. That's what I did, a wonderful high-gravity nano-brew from NH. It was very malty, with coffee-molasses undertones and a dry finish, balanced by assertive hops that gave structure without intruding. I could find the brewer again, but...I had to promise Chris (the owner) that I wouldn't give the name online!

Ebenezer's isn't really near anywhere, but it's a very nice ride and a great destination.

Away, Away Downeast: Part 3 of 3

Homeward bound from Lubec
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Escargot and Finnan Haddie at Le Garage in Wiscasset

Downeast SardinesSunday was a long driving day. We awoke in Machias and started early with pie and coffee at Helen's before heading further downeast to Lubec and then all the way home to Plymouth. That's not that bad, about 400 miles if you stick to Rte 1 and the interstate, but of course we didn't. We explored all the inlets and points that had roads we could drive on and had great fun. 

Eventually we ran out of time and had to head homeward, through Machias and Ellsworth, back over the excellent bridge at Bucksport and past Belfast back to the comforts of more settled lands. We reached Wiscasset around 7pm, in time for dinner at our favorite waystation when heading home from the Maine Coast, Le Garage.   

This whole long expedition was a special trip for Lorna's birthday, and I had made a reservation in advance. Lorna's dad was from Nove Scotia, and maybe that's why she always gets the Finnan Haddie appetizer - it's a sort of Yankee Soul Food.  We go there quite a lot (we are in Maine quite a lot) and Cheryl knows us well by now. I won't say what she did to make Lorna's birthday special, but it was quite special indeed! (And mercifully it did not involve the waitrons singing Happy Birthday.) 

Away, Away Downeast: Part 2 of 3

Lubec, ME
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Black Coffee and Blueberry Pie at Helen's

Black Coffee and Blueberry PieDowneast Maine is blueberry country, and there are no better blueberies than the tiny Wild Maine Blueberries. I usually try to avoid the carbs, but I can't pass up the black coffee and blueberry pie for breakfast at Helen's in Machias.

From Machias we continued our eastward trek toward the dawn country, arriving in Lubec some time later after exploring the few side roads that reach out to the sea. It's only about 30 miles, but we were in no rush - we were adventuring!


Monica's ChocolatesOne happy discovery out in Lubec, about as far as you can go in Downeast Maine before you reach Canada, was Monica's Chcocolates. Monica is an excellent chocolatier who makes beautiful shells and filled chocolates that she boxes up and ships all over the country. I still haven't learned how she wound up in Lubec, though - Monica is from Peru!

Away, Away Downeast: Part 1 of 3

Machias, ME
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Locavore Pride in Ellsworth

Localvore Pride!There's a lot of Maine seacoast, but you're not Downeast until you reach Ellsworth. In Ellsworth, Routes 1 and 3 meet, and most of the cars head out to Bar Harbor and Acadia National Park. Once you've passed Ellsworth, Coastal Route 1 gets smaller and less well-maintained. The towns are smaller and further apart, and there's not much good coffee to be had until you get to Machias, 60 miles on. So you might as well get a cup at The Maine Grind in Ellsworth, fierce locavores who really get what it means to treat food right.

While you're parked, you could do worse than to stop in at the excellent John Edwards Market for some additional road provisions, perhaps something to enjoy in your motel room.

The Common Ground Fair

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Destination: The annual Common Ground Fair in Unity, ME.

Best of Show: The pasture-raised pork from Tide Mill Organic Farm

German Beer RadishThe Common Ground Fair is just about the antithesis of the Big E (see last week). It is smaller and quirky, in its own way. But the biggest difference is that it is hosted by MOFGA, the Maine Organic Farmers and Gardeners Association, and so is a venue exclusively for organic and sustainable agriculture.

MOFGA has a number of fearless farmers growing produce that you probably never heard of and that you'll probably never see on the shelf at Stop & Shop, like the German Beer Radishes pictured here. That's one of the best things about coming to these events.

This year was the 30th annual Common Ground Fair. It has grown quite a lot since Lorna and I first visited it in 2001. Then is was certainly smaller, and the organic farmers and other vendors there were more likely to be the pioneers of the movement, the true believers making it happen in a difficult business environment.

The 2010 fair was much, much larger: 60,000 people were expected! There was a three-mile wait to park on Saturday afternoon, and then a 10-minute walk along a muddy woodland path after we'd parked. It was much further than when we'd parked for the Big E the previous week.

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